The Sturgeon Experience: Conservation & Caviar on the Saint John River
It isn't often that you come across someone with as much knowledge about a specific subject as Cornel Ceapa has about sturgeon.
The owner of New Brunswick-based Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar has been immersed in studying this ancient fish species since his university days. With a PhD in sturgeon biology, Cornel has dedicated his life to understanding, preserving and advocating for this species at risk.
So when it comes to sturgeon — a fish that has remained virtually unchanged since the time of the dinosaur — Cornel rarely runs out of things to say.
"I can talk forever," he says with a laugh.
Cornel, originally from Romania, came to Canada in 2001, driven by his passion for sturgeon conservation. His research had uncovered the alarming reality that sturgeon populations were in decline globally, with some species on the brink of extinction. He found hope in Canadian waters.
"Canada has five species of sturgeon from coast to coast," he says. "New Brunswick is really the perfect province for sturgeon...and I would say the Saint John River is the Sturgeon Capital of the World. It really, really is the best place in the world for sturgeon and it is not something that we take for granted. We are the stewards of this resource."
Cornel started with a job at the University of New Brunswick but eventually struck out on his own, opening Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar in 2005 with the aim of producing sturgeon and caviar in aquaculture.
Aquaculture is the marine equivalent of agriculture — allowing Cornel to sustainably raise sturgeon in a land-based water environment.
Based in Carter's Point, New Brunswick, Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar focuses on sustainability and quality. Cornel's philosophy is simple: create a product that mirrors the quality of wild sturgeon without depleting natural populations.
"We use the wild products as our standard," he says.
Rather than waiting until wild sturgeon stocks are overfished, Cornel advocates for aquaculture as a preventative measure, protecting the long-term health of New Brunswick's wild populations. His process is slow, taking up to ten years to grow the sturgeon, but the result is an environmentally conscious operation that yields superior products.
To explain the difference between his method and industrialized practices, Cornel likens it to the difference between factory-raised chickens and free-range ones.
"The quality disappears," he notes, underscoring the importance of mimicking nature when cultivating a healthy, sustainable product. During the winter, for example, Cornel allows the fish to rest without food as they would in the wild, rather than attempting to grow them larger faster with a year-round feeding schedule.
For nearly two decades, Cornel, his wife and his son have built the sturgeon business into a model of sustainability.
They've supplied live sturgeon for restocking and research to many places in the world. They've been instrumental in the conservation and restoration of the species, helping places like Poland and Germany restock the rivers flowing into the Baltic Sea with sturgeon that has come from their New Brunswick location.
And, of course, there is the culinary side of their business.
Cornel does not waste any of the fish he has so carefully raised. He has found a market for everything, from the maw (gas bladder) to the head. On his site, you can purchase tanned sturgeon hides, smoked fillets, ground meat and bone marrow.
"Nose to tail just makes so much sense," he says.
Yet it is his caviar that has brought his business international renown. Offering three varieties — two farmed and one wild — Cornel's products have become a sought-after delicacy.
For those looking for a truly unique culinary adventure, Cornel offers the 'Sturgeon Safari,' an immersive experience that takes place in May, July and August (fishing is not allowed in June). Guests join Cornel and his team on the Saint John River, where they learn firsthand how wild sturgeon are caught, selected, tagged and released if they don't meet the strict standards for harvest.
This hands-on approach provides a deeper understanding of the species and the care required to ensure their conservation. Afterwards, guests visit the processing plant to observe the meticulous process of creating caviar and even get a chance to taste the product from the very fish caught that day.
To top off the experience, guests are treated to a 7-course tasting menu that showcases sturgeon and caviar in different forms.
At other times of the year, Cornel offers a Sturgeon Masterclass with the feast, where he discusses aquaculture and sturgeon conservation in greater detail.
He is planning on expanding his offerings as the business continues to grow.
Cornel's ability to translate the focus of his life's scientific work into an entertaining, educational and delicious experience has earned him high praise from guests.
"I'm not cheap," he says. "But I offer a 'wow' experience that they'll remember for the rest of their lives."
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