British Columbia
Feast in the Okanagan Desert
Discovering Syilx food, culture and history in Osoyoos, BC
By Doug Wallace
What arrives first to the table is an appetizer called Dirt Candy: All Treasures Buried.
It consists of maple-dressed and fire-roasted yams, squash and beets, with crispy leek, sunflower seeds and mixed greens. Next, bannock with green pea hummus, roasted ratatouille, and corn and pepper succotash.
I'm dining with a group at The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry, the signature restaurant at Spirit Ridge Resort in the heart of Osoyoos, a town in British Columbia's South Okanagan Valley.
It is here, in Canada's only true desert ecosystem, nestled within the vineyards and mountains, that we've stumbled upon a tourist-teaching moment, a delicious backstory, a chance to learn about the people of the area, past and present.
This is the sacred land of the Syilx people of the Okanagan Nation.
The resort is adjacent to the Nk’Mip Cellars (pronounced “in-ka-meep”) the first Indigenous-owned winery in North America. The Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre is just down the road.
Together, the complex is a celebration of regional Indigenous culture, comfortably connected to the hospitality framework of the town and to the land itself.
The restaurant is named after the four food chiefs of Syilx oral tradition, a sacred chaptik, or creation story, handed down through the generations.
The chiefs represent four key food elements, used as inspiration in the kitchen’s approach to the menu:
- The Bear (Black Bear) is Chief Skәmxist who represents all animals above ground, signifying self-sacrifice, leadership and the spirit of giving.
- The Fish (Chinook Salmon) is Chief Ntytikxw who represents all food that lives in the water, known for perseverance and solid work ethic.
- The Root (Bitterroot) is Chief Speetlum who represents the plants below the ground and a relationship to the land.
- The Berry (Saskatoon Berry) is Chief Seeya who represents all plants above the ground, symbolizing growth and strength in community.
Executive Chef Murray McDonald, who previously led the kitchens at Toronto’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel and was the founding executive chef of the Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundland, describes the food as modern vineyard cuisine.
“We showcase the best of British Columbia through locally sourced ingredients, seasonal produce, and B.C. fish and game meats, while paying respect to the land where Spirit Ridge Resort is located," he says.
"It’s the authentic taste of the region and reflects the character of the South Okanagan.”
The food is more feast then dinner. As a group, we try to take in as many main dishes as we can manage.
Crazy Water Clams are poached in fennel, tomato, shallots, wine and chili, while a Salmon Platter features maple candied salmon, smoked salmon and beet-cured gravlax.
The Bear section of the menu is meaty, with dishes such as Beef Carpaccio with burnt orange, Maple Braised Pork Belly with candied prosciutto and Barbecued Ribs with duck-fat potatoes.
A bone-in Grilled Elk Rack comes with nettle dumplings, braised red cabbage, macerated berries and a roasted squash purée.
It doesn’t get more earthy than this.
For dessert, we tuck into sponge cake soaked in honey and lemon cognac syrup, Black Forest cake with local cherries, and a caramel and white-chocolate mousse with pear compote.
We push away from the table and contemplate the remainder of our wines, all incredible, many from next door.
“One of my favourite pairings is the Nk’Mip Dreamcatcher alongside our ling cod,” Chef McDonald says. “It’s a balanced combination that highlights both the freshness of the fish and the wine's vibrant character.
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
Photo: Spirit Ridge Resort
The folks at Nk’Mip Cellars see themselves as guardians of a proud legacy, producing international award-winning wines — about 18,000 cases per year, on average, of 15 different wines.
I try the aforementioned Dreamcatcher, with its Riesling backbone and soft yet slightly sweet citrus and peach centre. This is their best-seller. The jammy Talon is a rich red blend with hints of black pepper, a favourite with The Bear entrées.
The wines are all food-friendly: Pinot Gris for fresh salads, Syrah for bison short ribs and late-harvest Riesling for the local cheeses — everything works.
“We have something special here in the valley," says Head Winemaker Jason Hall, who is part Syilx.
Jason Hall. Photo: Nk'Mip Cellars
Jason Hall. Photo: Nk'Mip Cellars
He treats his grapes like children, coaxing them in the right direction, yet with minimal intervention.
“I like to design the wines to be balanced, not too sweet or too acidic. They’re meant to be wines you come home to after a day of work," he says. "Fun, soft and not too serious.”
Photo: Nk'Mip Cellars
Photo: Nk'Mip Cellars
Built into the mountainside a few steps from the Spirit Ridge Resort, the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre is an introduction to the Syilx people, highlighting the living culture of the Osoyoos Indian Band and the Okanagan people.
Photo: Destination BC/Andrew Strain
Photo: Destination BC/Andrew Strain
The indoor interpretive centre is an interactive learning environment featuring displays, educational stations and two multi-sensory theatre experiences.
Photo: Doug Wallace
Photo: Doug Wallace
The Living Lands outdoor exhibit includes a reconstructed village, metal silhouette sculptures depicting village life and a network of walking trails among the sturdy ponderosa pines and Saskatoon berry bushes.
Photo: Doug Wallace
Photo: Doug Wallace
Though Spirit Ridge is operated by Hyatt, The Osoyoos Indian Band is the overarching owner and developer behind the Nk’Mip destination properties, including the Cultural Centre, the winery land, and the resort/restaurant operations.
The Oliver-Osoyoos wine region itself is one of Canada’s most-awarded, with an inspiring wave of talent making world-class wine.
The terroir here is as diverse as the winemakers themselves, thanks to a range of microclimates. The two communities are knit together, the winemakers all embracing the methods and varietals that work best, giving the region its distinct wine personality.
It’s all a balanced mix of desert warmth and vineyard finesse.
The region is also a feast for food-lovers, the wineries doubling as dining destinations. And being instilled in the cultural foodways of a place is a sure-fire way to get to know it.
“One of the greatest compliments we receive is seeing local residents bring visiting friends and family to dine with us,” Chef McDonald says. “Becoming a destination that locals are proud to recommend says a great deal about the experiences we create.”
Doug Wallace
Doug Wallace is Toronto-based travel and lifestyle journalist, photographer and copywriter, principal of Wallace Media, editor-publisher of TravelRight.Today and author of travel-advice book How to Plan a Vacation. He can be found beside buffet tables, at craps tables, on massage tables and table-hopping around the world.