Québec
The Flavours of Kamouraska
On the shores of the St. Lawrence River in the village of Kamouraska, Côté Est is part restaurant, part café, and part shop — all rooted in the ingredients, producers and traditions of Eastern Québec.
Walking up to the ornate front door of Côté-Est, a culinary destination in Eastern Québec, I feel a sense of excitement.
Its restaurant, La Buvette, has been recognized by the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand for two years in a row, but it is Côté Est’s reputation among locals across Bas-Saint-Laurent that is truly fuelling my curiosity.
It's a rainy morning, and through the shop windows I can see the riverfront terrace, blending into the landscape seamlessly.
"I could easily lose a day here,” I think to myself as I pull open the door and step inside.
Photo: Charles Olivier
Photo: Charles Olivier
Côté Est is a passion project of Kim Côté and Perle Morency, who share a deep connection to the region.
Perle, a Kamouraska local, met Kim while working at her family's bakery, Niemand.
Kim, a hunter, fisher, and forager, found a home in Kamouraska at age twenty, working as a kayaking guide and leading hunting expeditions in the far North.
The two share a similar upbringing where foraging is a common practice.
“For us, foraging is also a space for relaxation and a way to deeply respect the resources and the environment,” Perle says.
The restaurant (although that word feels far too simplified to describe Côté Est) is located on the shore of the St. Lawrence River in the heart of Kamouraska, in Québec Maritimes.
Here, the boreal forest meets fresh water and the sea, allowing culinary enthusiasts to draw from an endless bounty of regional flora and fauna. The region is a transitional space between the Northern and the Southern climates, an ideal spot from which Kim and Perle can fulfill their mission: “to showcase the richness of the region, its people, and their products”.
Côté Est is housed in the historic Presbytère of Kamouraska. The building was leased through a call for proposals by the church parish board, who wanted to make the space accessible to a project rooted in community values, says Perle.
“Because the presbytery has always held a strong place in local identity and community life, it felt like a completely natural fit for us,” she adds.
First came the restaurant, La Buvette. The outdoor terrace, La Cantina, and the shop, followed. Today, this restaurant-café-shop is a gathering place for locals, visitors, and members of the agri-food industry, with a reach far beyond what Kim and Perle had envisioned at the open.
Multiple bulletin boards adorned with chapters of local history and culinary traditions are seen inside and outside the building, giving credit where credit is due and educating visitors about the region.
The gourmet shop is focused on locally made products.
“We choose products that truly reflect the identity of Eastern Québec,” Perle explains.
“Our goal is to offer rarer, more unusual finds that aren't easily available elsewhere. Above all, the personal story and connection we share with the artisans is extremely important to us”.
La Cantina is usually self-serve, but a smiling kitchen assistant brings out our plates – scallop ceviche, mussels and frites, and a shrimp rosti – explaining each dish with enthusiasm.
La Cantina menu is seasonal, La Buvette menu changes almost weekly.
Both menus are deeply rooted in local ingredients, leaning into seafood and seasonal vegetables.
Côté Est’s claim to fame, however, is a seal burger.
My perfectly seasoned scallops and hearty mussels, paired with a glass of Famille Descombe Chardonnay, are everything I hoped for — fresh, flavourful, and reminiscent of the region.
Every spring, Kim spends a month on Îles-de-la-Madeleine. This tradition has become, as he puts it, “a bit of a migratory bird ritual for me! In fact, people even call me Kim-Migrateur.”
While on the island, Kim is embedded with the fishermen and living with the rhythm of the docks.
“This time spent [on Madeleine] also allows me to see first-hand the real state of fisheries in Québec and understand this complex system from the inside,” he adds.
For Kim, this annual expedition is a way to connect with strong traditions, support supply chain improvements, and personally process the catch before bringing it back to Kamouraska.
“Above all (and like everything that we do), it's a profound human encounter and a deep commitment to those who make the products,” he says.
Kim’s passion for the land and sea is something he offers as an interactive experience with MycoMigrator Expeditions, available for booking from mid-July to early September.
For this immersive excursion, Kim takes a group of four guests into the Kamouraska Highlands in his vintage Land Cruiser.
The experience, he says, is a gathering between the chef and adventurous food lovers looking to explore the region from a unique perspective.
The itinerary is tailored to the guests and can include a visit to local producers, a forest hike, foraging lessons, and even a swim. This truly one-of-a-kind full-day chef experience includes a three-course meal and snacks throughout the day.
Québec is a place I’ve come to love over the years. Not for its European-like charm but for its secrets and lesser-known places, where people learn from the land and embrace its offerings with respect.
Côté Est is one of such places, a culinary hub in a small village, proudly representing an entire region one dish at a time.
Kateryna Topol
Toronto-based travel writer, photographer, and content creator. Kateryna’s bylines appear in DreamScapes Magazine, EXPLORE, Jetsetter HK, AZURE Road, TravelWorld International, Low Season Traveler UK, and more.
She is the founder of an online travel magazine pathstotravel.com, North American music magazine, QuipMag.com, and a chapter lead for Travel Massive Toronto.