Dining on the Rails
How the chefs aboard The Canadian create memorable dishes in a space the width of a hallway
As the landscape unfolds outside the window of VIA Rail's The Canadian, an iconic trans-continental train journey that stretches from Toronto to Vancouver, passengers are treated to more than just sweeping views of the Canadian landscape.
Inside the dining car, a culinary adventure awaits, where regional flavours and locally sourced ingredients come together in dishes that celebrate tastes from around the country.
Think sweet waffles with a berry compote for breakfast, seared shrimp and scallop skewers for lunch, beef tenderloin grilled to perfection and served alongside a wild mushroom sauce for dinner. Every day, there's something new to try, with a mix of options for all tastes and dietary types.
Behind the scenes, the chefs onboard work their magic in a compact kitchen that's constantly on the move. VIA only hires Red Seal chefs, a standard of excellence in Canada, who bring a wealth of experience and the ability to think on their feet.
"Something weird is going to happen every day," says Cathy Grace Drozdowski, who spent years working in the kitchen on the Canadian. "Every trip is different."
Cathy now works in the Product and Service, Design & Procurement department. She is part of a team that ensures trains are stocked with everything from tea cups to toothpicks in the correct amounts.
"It is like a puzzle," she says.
On the Canadian, chefs and other service staff rotate at key points: Toronto to Winnipeg and back is one leg; Winnipeg to Vancouver is another, with new staff and supplies. The days onboard are long but it is a challenge that many enjoy, Cathy says.
Cooking on a moving train is no small feat.
"It's like a dance, a ballet," she explains. "Everyone knows their spot and where they need to be."
With just one chef and an assistant cook in each of the train's two kitchens, every plate that goes out is a carefully choreographed effort. The waiters too are impressive, navigating a moving train with trays of hot soups or a dozen glasses of water.
The menu is designed with variety in mind, offering choices that have mass appeal while also being sensitive to the regions the train passes through.
"We have a menu rotation so you get something different almost every day," Cathy says. This thoughtful planning means that you might get a salmon dish when you're on the West Coast and a hearty beef entree while in Alberta.
The emphasis is always on creating a menu that is exciting for guests and feels like something celebratory.
Paired with the menu is a wine list that features wines from British Columbia and Ontario, as well as a craft beer menu with selections from BC, Ontario and Manitoba.
At least 85% of the menu is sourced from Canada, Cathy says, and the same goes for other products that are used onboard.
"That is our mandate," she adds. "As fresh as possible and Canadian first."
A menu revamp is in the works and there will be two notable changes. The first is that the seafood will now be sourced only from MSC Certified Fisheries (those that have a certain level of sustainability). The second is that VIA has been working with the Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations (ICAN) to incorporate a few Indigenous recipes into their menu offerings, such as a cured salmon and a Three Sisters hash.
These will join the popular dishes that remain because they are guest favourites, such as the lamb and the always popular chocolate cake.
Knowing how much of each item to have onboard to not run out while also minimizing food waste is something that is always a challenge.
"Our tradition is to never say no," Cathy says. "So we really try to anticipate guests' needs."
Read more about VIA's 'The Canadian' itinerary
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