The Farm-to-Flight Revolution
Can an airport provide travellers with a distinct taste of place?
Nikos Mantis was three years into running his Thunder Bay-based catering company when an unexpected call came from the local airport.
It was 2016 and the Thunder Bay International Airport was undergoing renovations, aiming to replace its corporate food offerings with something local and authentic. Pinetree Catering, Nikos's company, had already made a name for itself by sourcing fresh, local ingredients and delivering a true taste of the region. The airport's leadership wanted him to bring that same local flavour into the terminal.
"Initially, I flat out said no," Nikos recalls. "I wasn't interested at all." But after repeated requests, he decided to take a leap and agreed to open a food service operation once renovations were complete.
In 2018, NOMAD opened its doors near Gate 1, offering freshly made grab-and-go meals, locally brewed craft beer, artisan coffee and a carefully curated selection of goods from Thunder Bay producers.
"At last count, we were stocking products from 23 or 25 different local food producers and vendors," Nikos says. Among the customer favourites are Thunder Oak Cheese, Heartbeat Hot Sauce, and the area's craft beers.
According to airport data, food and beverage sales have seen exponential growth since NOMAD's opening, Nikos says, adding that there is evidence that people are staying at the airport after landing to eat before heading into the city.
"People really appreciate having access to fresh, high-quality food," he says.
Local vendors are equally enthusiastic. For many, NOMAD is their largest customer and having their products featured in an international airport has been great for brand recognition.
For some items, like Heartbeat Hot Sauce, which exceeds the 100ml carry-on limit, buying at the airport post-security is the only way visitors can take that iconic taste of Thunder Bay home with them without checking a bag.
Airports across the country have been embracing the local-first concept and shifting from generic corporate food options to local flavours. This farm-to-flight movement is helping to create a meaningful connection between the journey and the destination.
With more than 26 million passengers departing annually, YVR is one of Canada's busiest airports. Although you'll find some of the usual chain restaurants you'd expect in a large urban airport, the Vancouver International Airport is also host to multiple local food vendors, such as Salmon n' Bannock, Triple O's Burgers, and Hula Poke.
The Pacific Farm Market in the Domestic area offers meals, snacks and gifts from a selection of local brands, such as 49th Parallel Coffee and Rosemary Rocksalt Bagels.
"It is your first and your last experience in a place," said Eric Pateman, Chief Experience Officer at the YVR, speaking to an audience at the Tourism Culinary Alliance Taste of Place Summit in Montreal in May 2024.
Eric's goal for the airport is to one day have a restaurant that is on Canada's Top 100 list, he said.
Promoting more local options is a good start to helping the millions of travellers going through the Vancouver hub to feel a continued connection to a place.
Other airports are doing the same and sourcing traveller essentials, like coffee and alcohol, locally. Just this year, Air North opened a restaurant, the Black Wolf Bistro, at the Erik Nielson Whitehorse International Airport, providing travellers with the same quality of food that the airline is known for when up in the air.
Related: Read about Air North's commitment to the community in our story Taking Flight
The Comox Valley Airport on Vancouver Island welcomes approximately 350,000 travellers each year, with daily direct flights to and from Calgary, Edmonton, and Vancouver. Travellers passing through the airport can enjoy a wide selection of locally made products at the On The Fly Café, including freshly baked goods, meals, and beverages. All items are provided by Island Good, showcasing the best of the island's culinary offerings and supporting local producers.
Even at Canada's largest and busiest hub, Toronto's Pearson International Airport, travellers can experience some of the unique tastes of the city while wandering through one of the two terminals.
The Distillery Bar, for example, showcases the flavours of Toronto’s Distillery District. The Kensington Market Street Food area in Terminal 1 features Kensington favourites like Dirty Bird Chicken + Waffles.
For local food advocates like Thunder Bay's Nikos, the movement towards local at Canada's airports is welcome despite its logistical challenges.
In smaller airports like Thunder Bay, products and service staff have to go through the same security screening as passengers, he says, and sudden staff turnover is a big problem when it takes weeks for new hires to go through the security clearance process.
"Logistically, it is a big feat," Nikos acknowledges. "But the feedback is so positive and people are genuinely impressed with the culinary scene in Thunder Bay in general and with what we are offering at the airport."
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