Vive le Nord
Cycling Through Ontario's Francophone Heartland
Golden fields stretch beneath a glowing sky as cyclists wind through quiet country roads in Ontario’s Nipissing region. The scent of wheat lingers in the warm air, and light dances off the pastoral landscape.
For millennia, this land has been home to the Nbisiing (Nipissing) People, who continue to be stewards of the lands surrounding Lake Nipissing.
During the early days of colonization, the footsteps and paddle strokes of early French explorers passed nearby, navigating Lake Nipissing en route to Georgian Bay or Lake Winnipeg.
Among them was Samuel de Champlain, the father of New France. Enchanted by the lush fields, berry-laden forests, and fish-filled rivers, Champlain saw promise in the land.
More than two centuries later, the same forests drew waves of settlers: French-Canadian loggers who arrived from the Outaouais region of Quebec to fell great pines, followed by railroad workers and farmers who cleared the land for cultivation.
Their legacy lingers in the region’s language and culture, and it can be experienced on a remarkable cycling route known as Vive le Nord.
Francophone Heart in Ontario
In a province often thought to be overwhelmingly English-speaking, the Nipissing area stands apart. Along the Trans-Canada Highway and its side roads, French signs, voices, and culture endure. Towns like Lavigne, Rivière-des-Français, Saint-Charles, and Sturgeon Falls remain vibrant hubs of Franco-Ontarian life. Church steps — once community gathering hubs — may have grown quiet, but cafés, chip stands, and parks now serve as the new town squares.
This living Francophone culture helped shape a solution when the Trans Canada Trail sought a quieter, more scenic route through the area. The local organization, Discovery Routes, stepped in, creating a 178-kilometre cycling loop through some of Ontario’s most charming rural landscapes.
The result: Vive le Nord (meaning long live the North), a bucolic route that bridges the past and present, offering hikers and cyclists a taste of both natural beauty and cultural richness.
The Vive le Nord trail meanders through tranquil countryside, following quiet country roads framed by fields of corn and wheat.
Barns — some over a century old — display vibrant quilt-block designs, adding a patchwork of colour to the rustic backdrop.
The terrain is mostly flat until the western edge of Lake Nipissing, where the scenery transforms. The road passes over small inlets and coves, bridges reveal breathtaking lake views, and rolling hills provide just enough elevation for exhilarating descents.
Mashkinonje Provincial Park, 40 km by bike from Sturgeon Falls, is a must-see. Both spectacular and peaceful, it evokes a timeless feel. Maintained with passion by volunteers, the park features 30 km of hiking trails, including a beautiful boardwalk extending into the Loudon-Peatland bog. A hidden gem and a local favourite, the park feels like a journey back in time.
Photo: Ontario Parks
Photo: Ontario Parks
For those wanting to stretch the experience over a few days, Sturgeon Falls makes an ideal base camp. The largest population centre in West Nipissing, the town blends history, culture, and mouthwatering cuisine.
Nearby cycling routes, like the 66-kilometre West Nipissing Mural Tour, which uses public art to tell the stories of each town, available in both English and French through the Balado Découverte app, offer even more options for longer trips. Another gem is the West Nipissing Barn Quilt Trail, mapping 20 decorative barn quilts across villages like St-Charles, Warren, and Sturgeon Falls.
Across the river, the proudly Franco-Ontarian Deschatelets family operates Leisure Farms, where you can pick berries and buy treats such as pies, breads and pastries.
The nearby Chez Jean-Marc Bakery also fills the village with the scent of local berry pies, baked goods and hearty meals.
Nearby is Minnehaha Bay, with its scenic marina and Twiggs Coffee Roasters, a beloved local spot that has grown into a regional franchise.
In short, Sturgeon Falls is the perfect place to gather delicious picnic items to enjoy along the way. Local cyclists recommend stopping at Lavigne Park, just past the general store Chez Courchesne, where you can pick up cheese curds and cured meats to complete your meal.
With a tailwind, you can cover the 75 km between Sturgeon Falls and Noëlville in a single morning.
And if you complete the 178 km loop, the Dupras General Store in River Valley is a great place to stock up on supplies — even poutine!
Everywhere you go along the Vive le Nord route, the green-and-white Franco-Ontarian flag proudly flies. In every village, poutine awaits you — at Chez Courchesne, Dupras, and in multiple places in Sturgeon Falls. In Francophone Ontario, the region is well known for its chip stand rivalry, especially when it comes to poutine. On either side of Sturgeon Falls’ Main Street, you’ll find Larry’s Chip Stand and The Riv — a battle for the title of Ontario’s best poutine. The bold Monique’s joined the fray a few years ago. Cyclists like to end their ride with a poutine and gather to chat about their day on the road. Ask a local for their favourite spot and you're sure to get a variety of answers — you might just have to try them all.
Follow the signs and indulge in the delicious treats waiting along the way. With so many chances to stay active, you can indulge guilt-free.
The Vive le Nord route is more than just a scenic ride; it’s a cultural journey through one of Canada’s most enduring Francophone regions. Follow the signs, embrace the detours, and let the flavours, stories, and landscapes of Nipissing guide you.
With its deep history, warm communities, and unforgettable scenery, this cycling loop proves one thing beyond doubt: le Nord est bien vivant — the North is very much alive.
Andréanne Joly
Andréanne Joly enjoys exploring, digging into, and uncovering the Francophone culture of Canada and its various attractions. An independent journalist and accredited writer, she regularly collaborates with various tourism organizations, such as the Culinary Tourism Alliance, and media outlets including TFO, Francopresse.ca, University Affairs, L’Express, and others. She is also a contributing author to a book to be published by Gallimard, a major publishing house.
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