Foot Traffic Welcome
A Wanderer's Guide to Newfoundland's Trails

It was my first visit to Twillingate, Newfoundland, maybe a dozen years ago. I wandered into the small village of Durrell and spotted what looked like a nice walking path. Trouble was, it lay between a couple of small, wooden homes.
I was afraid I might be trespassing, so I hesitated. Just then, someone poked their head around the corner of one of the houses and asked what I wanted.
“I’d like to walk that path, but I don’t want to walk into someone’s backyard.”
The man looked at me like I was out of my Toronto mind, shook his head, and told me to go on ahead.
A short distance down the path, I spotted a sign that said “Private Land – Foot Traffic Welcome.”

I’ve seen similar signs in the postcard-perfect neighbourhood of St. John’s called The Battery, where tumbledown houses in colours you won’t even find at a crayon factory cling to sheer, rocky cliffs that rise straight up from the icy harbour.
That’s the way things are in Newfoundland and Labrador, a Canadian province that welcomed thousands of stranded fliers from around the world after the 9-11 attacks and opened their homes and hearts and refrigerators to total strangers for days on end.
I like to say Newfoundlanders are so nice, they make the Irish look mean. What makes a trip even more inspiring is the jaw-dropping scenery and sheer variety of things to see and do. Here’s a look at some of my favourite nature spots in this wonderful Canadian province.




TWILLINGATE
Photo: Barrett & MacKay Photo
Photo: Barrett & MacKay Photo
If you drive north from the town of Twillingate on Highway (okay, road) 340, you’ll pass a small sign on the left side of the road for Sea Breeze Park.
It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but if you park your car and walk towards the coast, you’ll be greeted by magnificent, craggy cliffs that are pounded by foamy white breakers, as well as gorgeous rocky bays and easy walking paths.
Photo: Tourism Newfoundland & Labrador
Photo: Tourism Newfoundland & Labrador
This used to be a mining area, so there are also old bits of rusty mining equipment scattered about to add to the slightly spooky ambience. A bit further north is the Long Point Lighthouse, which sits high on a hill and has amazing trails all around that offer views of small islets and deep blue water that stretches on just shy of forever.
You might spot whales or, in early summer, brilliant white icebergs. It’s one of my favourite parts of Canada, and one that few Canadians have the pleasure of visiting.
GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK, ROCKY HARBOUR & BONNE BAY
Photo: Jim Byers
Photo: Jim Byers
The Gros Morne Mountain Hike is consistently rated one of the finest in Canada. Take water and food, wear your best hiking shoes and layers of clothes for what could be rapidly changing weather.
Also make sure your cell phone is fully charged if you need help. The hike is a full 17 km’s in length and takes most people six to eight hours. There are plenty of rocky areas and some bits of loose shale, so walk carefully.
If you make it to the famous overlook, you’ll have gob-smackingly beautiful views of Western Brook Pond, a fjord-like body of water that’s flanked by towering mountains of ancient, grey rock.
If you’re limited in time or unable to handle a challenging hike, you can take a wonderful, relaxing boat ride on the pond and admire the rugged scenery from below. The last time I was in Western Newfoundland I also had a fabulous, two-hour kayaking trip on the gentle waters of Bonne Bay.
SKERWINK TRAIL, PORT REXTON
Photo: Destination Canada
Photo: Destination Canada
This 5.3 km trail near the pretty village of Trinity starts with an easy walk through a thick forest on relatively flat land. But then it starts to climb, and things get interesting.
The trees get gnarlier, with deep pine/juniper smells and plants with small red berries and what looks like a Newfoundland version of Spanish moss in the trees.
Pretty soon you should spot an opening in the forest that reveals a fence near a cliff. If you wander over and look down you’ll spot a vast sea of gentle green water lapping up against tall, towering black rocks called sea stacks that have been blasted by strong Atlantic winds and baked by the sun for eons.
Further along you’ll emerge onto a large, grassy plateau that juts out into the water, with tremendous views down the bay and out to the open ocean. When you finish your walk, try a craft beer on the patio at Port Rexton Brewing.
ST. JOHN’S
Photo: Dru Kennedy
Photo: Dru Kennedy
The 1.7 km walk from The Battery neighbourhood to Signal Hill might be the best urban hike in Canada.
You start in a maze of narrow laneways that snake through a series of colourful homes and art galleries, often with maps and instructions for first-time hikers.
At one point, you pretty much cross someone’s front deck. It’s not a walk for kids, as part of the path clings to some pretty gnarly rocks not far from the bay.
If you want to go all the way to the top of Signal Hill, be prepared for an elevation rise of about 170 meters over a trail and hundreds of steps on wooden staircases built by Parks Canada. Signal Hill offers sensational views of the city, or sometimes the island’s famous fog rolling in.
On a clear day, you can gaze down the coast to Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada. There are also fine trails in and around the charming seaside village of Quidi Vidi, including exceptional coastal views at a spot called Cuckhold’s Head.
In early summer, try a tour with Iceberg Quest to admire massive, white-blue icebergs in every shape and size. It’s truly a magnificent experience. You can also do whalewatching tours out of St. John’s and nearby Bay Bulls, or visit colonies of colourful puffins.
JIM BYERS
Jim Byers is the voice behind JimByersTravel.com, where he blends vivid travel writing, striking photography, and destination consulting. A former Toronto Star travel editor, Jim’s work now appears regularly in openjaw.com, BOLD Traveller, the Toronto Star, Costco Travel, Travelife, AARP Magazine, and other leading outlets. He’s a familiar guest on radio and TV, sharing insider tips and global insights, and he serves on the board of the Society of American Travel Writers. Whether on assignment or on air, Jim’s passion is inviting readers and listeners to see the world with fresh eyes.

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