Moose Tracks

Following the footsteps of Alice the Moose reveals the importance of preserving one of the last remaining wildlife corridors in Eastern North America

black moose lying on field during daytime

Photo by Shivam Kumar

Photo by Shivam Kumar

Meandering alongside the fabled St. Lawrence River, between Gananoque and Brockville, is one of the prettiest roadways in Ontario.

The Thousand Islands Parkway is framed on the north side by a majestic outcropping of pink granite topped with Eastern Red cedar, pine and juniper, and on the south side by the peninsulas, coves, and many islands of the St. Lawrence.

This winding two-lane roadway — and the villages and parks around it — sits within the Frontenac Arch Biosphere, a UNESCO World Heritage Reserve. Here, five diverse forest regions — the Lawrence, Boreal, Appalachian, Atlantic Coastal and Carolinian forests — converge like no where else on Earth.

It is also one of the last remaining intact forest and wetland linkages in eastern North America.

Have you ever wondered why this area is referred to as an Arch?

It’s because this is the southernmost neck of the Canadian Shield. It is the bottom arch of the geological and ecological landscape that arches down from Algonquin Park.

That’s why the gorgeous pink granite, typical of northern Georgian Bay, exists here, and the same reason there are more than a thousand islands dotted across the St. Lawrence. It only exists here.

It is a slender, unique arch of land nestled between Gananoque and Brockville that expands diagonally northwest to Athens, Westport, and Sharbot Lake.

It is because of that unique diversity and richness that such a wide variety of wildlife use this corridor as its migrational passage. 

In fact, it is a critical corridor.

There are animals on the move here. The River, the forests, the wetlands are nature’s highway and accommodation for hundreds of species of birds and animals that migrate north and south every year — many rare and endangered.

To fully understand the significance of the region, let's meet one of its most famous visitors: Alice.

Photo c/o A2A

Photo c/o A2A

Alice was a 700 lb moose who wandered into an upstate New York town in 1998. She was electronically tagged by the local conservation authority and driven back to the interior of the Adirondack Park.

Alice, however, felt the call of every traveller with wanderlust. Instead of staying put in the lushness of the Adirondacks, she headed north to the Canada/U.S. border. Reaching the St. Lawrence River, Alice swam across using many of the islands as respite, and a place to get dinner and drink for the night.

Alice came ashore in Canada just east of the Thousand Islands International Bridge at Ivy Lea. She then made her way across the Thousand Islands Parkway, over the granite to Highway 401.

Remarkably, Alice made it across the 401 — one of the world’s widest and busiest highways.

Over the course of a year, Alice trekked 570 km from Adirondack Park in New York State to Algonquin Park in Ontario, where she lived out her days.

Her trek was remarkable because it was trackable — this intrepid moose showed scientists that not only was it possible for animals to travel such long distances, but that it was vital to preserve the corridors that help them do so.

Thousands of animals do not successfully make this journey, and are killed, particularly on Highway 401, but also on other roadways, and many times due to lack of food, water and rest, where habitat loss is a problem.

Photo: Destination Ontario

Photo: Destination Ontario

Born of the need to preserve this corridor, a Canadian, American, and Indigenous partnership called A2A Collaborative (Adirondack to Algonquin) was established.

Safeguarding this critical corridor for the migration of birds and animals is A2A’s goal.

Not only are they active conservationists, but they are also focused on road ecology and on the development of safe wildlife pathways over highways. They are working to raise awareness and motivate action for a strategy that restores connectivity, reduces wildlife mortality and improves driver safety. 

A2A has forged a hiking trail between the Adirondack and Algonquin Parks. Mirroring Alice’s path, the A2A Trail is the monumental completion of a series of existing trails to create one journey.

It is forged and mapped, and you can hike it or bike it — and in some cases even drive parts of it. You can download the A2A Trail Guide App and follow in Alice’s footsteps.

Photo by Parks Canada

Photo by Parks Canada

Photo: Parks Canada/Tim Forbes

Photo: Parks Canada/Tim Forbes

Exploring the Thousand Islands Parkway

Although Alice's journey spanned a huge distance between the United States and Canada, one of the most exhilarating parts of her trek can be experienced on a trip along the Thousand Islands Parkway, where you can explore villages, shops, inns, farms, boat tours, solar breweries, theatres, galleries and restaurants.

Here are some of our favourite spots from around Rockport and Gananoque.

Rockport is geographically located in the middle of the Parkway between Gananoque and Brockville. It’s a sweet little town built onto the rock at the shore of the St. Lawrence River.

A boat tour around the islands is a highlight for many visitors to the Thousand Islands, and Canadian-owned Rockport Cruises is a great choice with a variety of types of tours.

Photo: Destination Ontario

Photo: Destination Ontario

Be sure to stop in at Cornwall’s Pub at the Boathouse Country Inn, right at the River.

A little further west along the Parkway heading toward Gananoque, the Glen House Resort boasts Smuggler’s Glen Golf Course and Shipman’s Dining Room. You can’t go wrong with this classic Canadian lodge-like resort. Great food, great views, great golf - take your pick. 

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

This area has great camping of course, and you can either camp on one of the islands, through the Thousand Islands National Park, or nearby at Cosmo Camping, and Ivy Lea Campground.

Landon Bay. Photo: Parks Canada

Landon Bay. Photo: Parks Canada

If you like to hike, there are a number of trails in the beautiful Landons Bay, an extension of the Thousand Islands National Park. One trail in particular will take you up one of those granite outcroppings we mentioned earlier to a spectacular view of the forest, the Parkway, and the River below.

Photo: Parks Canada

Photo: Parks Canada

As you explore east along the Parkway, you do not want to miss the magical Purple Door Books & Gifts.

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Tucked inside the 230-year-old La Rue house, Purple Door is a mystical setting, not only because it sells pottery and tarot, crystals and grimoire, but also because of its idyllic gardens of phlox, lupine, coneflower and lilac. Even in winter, the sparkle of the season is celebrated.

The Purple Door’s gracious homestead overlooking the St. Lawrence River harkens back to the home’s historic past when William La Rue fled the United States with his family during the American Revolution. He hid out on the islands before establishing a mill and building the beautiful white home that the Purple Door now inhabits. Many Mallorytown locals will tell you that they still see, hear, and feel La Rue and his family, happily working around the house and grounds.

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Photo: Destination Ontario

Photo: Destination Ontario

Pangea House

Pangea House

For accommodation in Gananoque, we are big fans of the beautiful yellow inn on the Gananoque River, Pangea House. Every room in this beautiful boutique inn is designed and decorated to emulate a different continent. You will delight in Chef Geoff’s dinner creations — works of art, always.

Bookable: Stay at Pangea House & fly over the Thousand Island

Pangea House

Pangea House

There are many wonderful restaurants in Gananoque, at the beginning of the Thousand Island Parkway. For some of the best sushi in the area, visit Sushi Sun (takeaway only) and enjoy it at Joel Stone Park.

For delicious Italian fare, Riva is both beautiful indoors and outdoors on the piazza. Anthony’s, Stonewater Inn, or the Old English Pub will all feed you well and share some of Gananoque's heritage while doing so. Coffee shops not to miss in town - Pistachio Cafe, the Painted Turtle Cafe, and Laverne’s

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

Photo: Deb Lace-Kelly

We’re not saying that Alice stopped for a coffee at the Painted Turtle, or played a round of golf at Smuggler’s Glen, but we imagine that her adventurous spirit lives on in this area. The Thousand Island Parkway will lead you east and west through a rich ecological landscape steeped in Indigenous, explorer, and magical history.

Deb Lace-Kelly

Deb Lace-Kelly is a Director with the Frontenac Arch Biosphere Network, a communications professional, and the creator of The Lost Compass, a regenerative travel project for writers and artists. Deb is writing her debut novel, an historical fiction set in the shipping & fishing towns of her ancestral Wales. Deb holds an MA in media and lives in Gananoque, Ontario.


Canada. Crafted by Canadians.

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