Spirited
Discover Music, Whisky and Community in Mabou
In a world where mass tourism often erodes the very culture it seeks to celebrate, Mabou stands apart.
This small village on the western coast of Cape Breton Island is steeped in tradition, with music and community an integral part of everyday life.
Although the whole western side of Cape Breton is known as Canada's musical coast due to its ties to Celtic music, community ceilidhs, world-renowned fiddlers and vibrant local venues, what makes Mabou special is how deeply rooted it is in the everyday.
There is no glossy facade or contrived “experience” here — instead, visitors are invited into the rhythm of the village, where warm hospitality and genuine connection create a window into local life.
Music somehow always finds a way to attach itself to my journeys. In the case of Mabou, my connection began long before I ever visited.
In unintentionally East Coast fashion, I was in my soon-to-be in-laws' kitchen in Vancouver when the Mull River Shuffle by the Rankin Family came on. Everyone knew the song except me. Until that point, I'd never even heard of the Rankins. My in-laws couldn't believe I didn't know one of Canada's most famous musical families. The more I learned about the Rankins and their roots in Cape Breton, the more intrigued I became.
Years later, during a solo trip to Cape Breton, my wife came across the Red Shoe Pub. Thrilled to learn it was owned by the Rankin Sisters, she sent me a simple message: This place is amazing, you have to visit next time you're on the East Coast.
That chance finally came this past autumn when I travelled to Cape Breton with a good friend. I heeded my wife's advice and made Mabou — home of the Red Shoe Pub — one of our key stops. I'm happy to report it lived up to every expectation.
The Red Shoe Pub: A Place For Music & Connection
Photo: Dean Casavechia/Tourism Nova Scotia
Photo: Dean Casavechia/Tourism Nova Scotia
Music is woven into daily life in Mabou and nowhere is this more evident than at the Red Shoe Pub.
Here, you'll find live music nightly, but it is not a performance for an audience. Instead it feels like a gathering of neighbours and friends, where visitors are welcome to join in. Sitting there, listening to music, I didn't feel like a tourist, but like a guest.
The experience was warm and personal, a chance to be part of the moment rather than merely observing it. It's a testament to the community's commitment to preserving their traditions while sharing them openly with those lucky enough to stop by.
Glenora Distillery: Cape Breton in a Glass
Photo: Glenora Inn & Distillery
Photo: Glenora Inn & Distillery
Another highlight of the Mabou area is the Glenora Inn & Distillery, North America's first single malt whisky distillery.
Just a short drive from the village (about 10 minutes), Glenora crafts its whisky with the care and pride that define Cape Breton culture. A tour reveals the artistry behind Glen Breton Rare, their signature single malt, an award-winning spirit and arguably one of the best whiskeys in Canada.
We stayed at the inn and ate at the restaurant, both of which were wonderful. Much like at the Red Shoe Pub, live music seems to be a nightly occurrence and I got the impression that many of the musicians played at both venues regularly.
Although stopping in Mabou just to visit the pub and distillery is more than worth the trip, the surrounding Mabou Highlands are also well worth a look as there are some great hiking trails. Cape Mabou Hiking has all the information you'd need to get out in nature.
My personal favourite time to visit is the fall, when you can pair the spectacular foliage with the live music of the Celtic Colours music festival, which happens around the second week of October. That said, the Mabou Highlands are spectacular in every season. The vibrant colours of autumn turn to a white wintry dream when the snow comes. In the spring, the wildflowers bloom and the creeks swell with melting winter snow. And in the summer, the warm sunny days are perfect for exploring the coastal landscape.
Any time of year, you'll find pubs and community halls filled with live music, where culture is shared, connections are made and traditions are passed down.
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia/Davey and Sky
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia/Davey and Sky
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia/Davey and Sky
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia/Davey and Sky
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia
Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia
Photo: Glenora Inn & Distillery
Photo: Glenora Inn & Distillery
Mabou is located south of the Cabot Trail, along Route 19.
Aubrey Reine
Aubrey is the Product Director at Landsby. He grew up in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies and now makes his home in Vancouver with his wife and two kids. His column, Passage, is an homage to a lesser-known side of Canada.
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