Rocks, Trees & Lakes
Quintessential Canadian Lake Life in Manitoba's Whiteshell Provincial Park
Rocks, Trees & Lakes
Quintessential Canadian Lake Life in Manitoba's Whiteshell Provincial Park
By Izabela Jaroszynski
A steep wooden staircase leads down from the cottage to the dock. In late May, the lake is already wide open for the season, and the air is warm as we sit on the dock enjoying the view. Falcon Lake stretches out in front of us, peppered with islands and surrounded by pine and granite.
“A lot of Manitoba is prairie flat,” says Caleigh Christie, owner of Falcon Trails Resort inside Whiteshell Provincial Park. “But where we are, it’s quite rugged. There’s bedrock everywhere.”
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
The Whiteshell is in the province’s southeast corner — almost at the Ontario border. The landscape shifts from open prairie to exposed shield rock and dense boreal forest as you drive east from Winnipeg.
While we are visiting in the warmer months — as do so many Manitobians who come to the Whiteshell for summer recreation — Falcon Trails Resort actually has its beginnings as a winter destination.
The ski hill behind the cabins was built in 1959 by the provincial government.
Photo: Jordan Janisse
Photo: Jordan Janisse
“There were lineups. It was super popular. Many, many Manitobans learned to ski there,” Caleigh tells me. By the 1990s, though, it was struggling, and the province was preparing to close it.
A steep wooden staircase leads down from the cottage to the dock. In late May, the lake is already wide open for the season, and the air is warm as we sit on the dock enjoying the view. Falcon Lake stretches out in front of us, peppered with islands and surrounded by pine and granite.
“A lot of Manitoba is prairie flat,” says Caleigh Christie, owner of Falcon Trails Resort inside Whiteshell Provincial Park. “But where we are, it’s quite rugged. There’s bedrock everywhere.”
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
The Whiteshell is in the province’s southeast corner — almost at the Ontario border. The landscape shifts from open prairie to exposed shield rock and dense boreal forest as you drive east from Winnipeg.
While we are visiting in the warmer months — as do so many Manitobians who come to the Whiteshell for summer recreation — Falcon Trails Resort actually has its beginnings as a winter destination.
The ski hill behind the cabins was built in 1959 by the provincial government.
Photo: Jordan Janisse
Photo: Jordan Janisse
“There were lineups. It was super popular. Many, many Manitobans learned to ski there,” Caleigh tells me. By the 1990s, though, it was struggling, and the province was preparing to close it.
Caleigh's parents were living in the community of Falcon Lake at the time, running a carpentry business and building cottages. When the government invited proposals to keep the hill running privately, her mother saw a practical solution: build cabins so people could ski and stay.
In 1996, the family secured a 21-year renewable land lease with Manitoba Parks and began construction.
Barb & Craig (owners), photo by Emily Christie
Barb & Craig (owners), photo by Emily Christie
"I was eight years old, the middle of three girls. So we were six, eight and 10 years old, a really young family, and my parents were still running a construction company," Caleigh says. "It's a huge credit to my parents, who saw the opportunity and took the risk."
The entire family continues to be involved in the business today, having just renewed the lease with the park in 2017.
Caleigh's parents were living in the community of Falcon Lake at the time, running a carpentry business and building cottages. When the government invited proposals to keep the hill running privately, her mother saw a practical solution: build cabins so people could ski and stay.
In 1996, the family secured a 21-year renewable land lease with Manitoba Parks and began construction.
Barb & Craig (owners), photo by Emily Christie
Barb & Craig (owners), photo by Emily Christie
"I was eight years old, the middle of three girls. So we were six, eight and 10 years old, a really young family, and my parents were still running a construction company," Caleigh says. "It's a huge credit to my parents, who saw the opportunity and took the risk."
The entire family continues to be involved in the business today, having just renewed the lease with the park in 2017.
Over three decades, the family has built eleven year-round cabins along the shore of Falcon Lake. They also added six off-grid eco-cabins on nearby High Lake, about two kilometres away. Those operate from May to October and are intentionally remote.
"We want the focus of this resort to be the beautiful, natural landscape and all of the outdoor activities that you can do while you’re here,” Caleigh says.
That approach aligns with Manitoba Parks and its mandate of preservation, she adds.
“Before being green was sexy, it kind of just was within us. It's what we believed in and what we wanted to hold in our business.”
Over three decades, the family has built eleven year-round cabins along the shore of Falcon Lake. They also added six off-grid eco-cabins on nearby High Lake, about two kilometres away. Those operate from May to October and are intentionally remote.
Photo: Emily Christie
Photo: Emily Christie
"We want the focus of this resort to be the beautiful, natural landscape and all of the outdoor activities that you can do while you’re here,” Caleigh says.
That approach aligns with Manitoba Parks and its mandate of preservation, she adds.
“Before being green was sexy, it kind of just was within us. It's what we believed in and what we wanted to hold in our business.”
Whiteshell Provincial Park stretches across more than 2,700 square kilometres of southeastern Manitoba.
“It exists within what we call boreal shield country,” Caleigh explains. "The rock here is some of the oldest rock on Earth.”
The terrain is rugged, dramatic and heavily forested, with lakes throughout.
“I would say — and I don’t think many would argue with me — that it’s Manitoba’s most beautiful and popular provincial park,” Caleigh says.
Beyond the landscape, the wide appeal of the Whiteshell is its close proximity to Winnipeg. Our drive in from the city took about two hours along one of the straightest roads I've ever been on.
Activity shifts with the seasons. From May long weekend until early September, the area fills with cottagers. Local businesses open — grocery store, restaurants, services. Winter brings typical cold-weather fun: skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and ice fishing.
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
Photo: Emily Christie/Falcon Trails Resort
As the resort's name suggests, trails are a central part of the Whiteshell and welcome visitors year round.
Falcon Trails maintains its own network on site: hiking, mountain biking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking. Guests can step out from their cabins and onto them. The resort is also connected to a larger trail system in the South Whiteshell and to the Trans Canada Trail, which extends across the country.
A new addition is a full 38-kilometre loop around Falcon Lake, built in partnership with the South Whiteshell Trail Association. Caleigh served as past president of the volunteer board.
The eastern end climbs higher into more rugged terrain, with incredible vistas of the lake. People approach it differently. Some walk it over multiple days, “like Camino-type walks.” Cyclists can complete a lap in about three hours. Ultra trail runners are increasingly using it as well.
Wildfire affected parts of the Whiteshell last year, but the Falcon Lake area avoided structural damage. One major trail — the Mantario — was impacted and closed due to fire damage and fallen trees. Manitoba Parks says it is working on a restoration plan.
In the morning on the dock, coffee in hand, it’s easy to understand the pull of the Whiteshell.
“There's rocky, there’s trees, there’s lakes everywhere,” Caleigh says. “It’s that quintessential picturesque Canadian lake landscape.”
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