Saskatchewan Unexpected
A road trip from Regina to Saskatoon reveals Canadian treasures
A large, inland salt lake with therapeutic powers. A cool beach town with an historic café. And one of Canada’s most underrated cities.
Central Saskatchewan is one of my favourite places in Canada to explore, filled with unusual, quirky attractions and some of the world’s nicest people.
Regina
Wascana Park
Take time to explore downtown Regina and its many attractions. Wascana Park has lovely walks along Wascana Lake, including excellent views of the Saskatchewan legislative building across the water.
It’s one of the most handsome structures I’ve seen in Canada, a Beaux Arts building that dates to 1912. It offers free tours in both English and French.
Farmer's Market
One of the things I liked most in Regina on my last visit was the Farmer’s Market, where there were stands selling lemon kombucha and locally made chutneys.
RCMP Heritage Centre
No Canadian should miss a trip to the RCMP Heritage Centre, where you can take a brief tour of the Mounties’ academy grounds. If you’re lucky, there might be a parade going on or some training.
There’s a sobering cenotaph where graduates regularly leave roses to honour fallen Mounties, and a small, pretty chapel that’s said to be the oldest building in the city.
The Roughriders
If it’s football season, do not miss a home game of the Saskatchewan Roughriders, who have perhaps the best (and wackiest) fans of any team in North America.
Photo: Tourism Saskatchewan
Photo: Tourism Saskatchewan
Fans usually arrive at the game decked out head-to-toe in Roughrider t-shirts, sweatpants, helmets and face paint.
A number also sport watermelons on their heads, the idea being that if you cut one in the shape of a football helmet and take out the pink fruit, you’re left with a white and green hat. (Fans told me they recommend carving your watermelon a couple of days before the game, so you don’t get wet goop dripping down your neck on game day.)
Regina to Saskatoon
The tranquil Qu’Appelle Valley is just a short drive north of Regina, with beautiful rolling hills and a lovely, wide valley.
One of the most enjoyable towns to explore is Lumsden, where you’ll find engaging locals and independent shops. Stop in at Saskoffee for ethically sourced beans and a cup of joe.
Photo: Tourism Saskatchewan
Photo: Tourism Saskatchewan
Just a few minutes further north, on the shores of Last Mountain Lake, is the fun, lakeside town of Regina Beach. There’s a nice marina and a large kids’ playground on the lake.
What charmed me the most was a visit to the Blue Bird Café, which will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2028. There are tons of cool, historic photos on the wall, including pix from the days when Regina Beach had floating dance halls for visitors from all over the province and when the café was a pool hall with a barber shop in the basement.
There’s zero pretense here; just great food and warm, welcoming people. Which is pretty much the case for the whole province.
A bit further north is Little Manitou Lake, a mineral-laden body of water where just about anyone — or anything — can float. The Manitou Springs Resort and Mineral Spa has indoor pools with warm mineral water from the lake, so you can enjoy a swim no matter the weather outside.
In the town of Manitou Beach, Danceland is a marvellous old dance hall of North America that attracted thousands of dance and music fans in the 1920s and ’30s. It’s a beautiful, romantic building with many stories to tell. Manitou Beach is also home to a bevy of talented artists.
Saskatoon
Saskatoon is one of the coolest, under-appreciated cities in Canada. There are artsy, walkable neighbourhoods with fine shops and restaurants, lovely riverfront parks, one of Canada’s most historic theatres, a first-rate art museum, a yearly Shakespeare festival, and, returning this year, fine riverboat rides.
The year-round. downtown Saskatoon Farmer's Market is a great way to learn about the city and its people, and also to pick up super tasty products. There’s a vast array of diverse food offerings, including wild boar, goat milk, samosas, falafel, baklava and Jamaican meat patties.
Riversdale is a trendy neighbourhood just west of downtown. One of the great attractions in the area is the Roxy, a 1930 structure that’s one of the last “atmospheric theatres” in Canada, presenting movies in a structure decorated to look like a Spanish courtyard. It’s an utterly beguiling place to visit.
The South Saskatchewan River looms large in the city’s history, as well as its present. It wasn’t running last year due to low water levels, but owners of the Prairie Lily riverboat, a gleaming, white ship that evokes another era, expect to have her running on the river again this year. It’s a fine way to spend a summer’s evening and soak up the sights along the way.
On the artsy side, the Remai Modern is one of the top museums in Canada, with fine displays of modern art in a spectacular building near the river. The museum also contains the largest collection of Picasso linocuts in the world. Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan puts on fine plays in a tent along the banks of the river. I saw a great, 1960’s-style adaptation of “Taming of the Shrew” a few years back.
Just a few minutes outside of town is Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where you’ll find splendid displays about the area’s rich Indigenous history. It’s also a lovely spot for a walk with fine views of the South Saskatchewan River and the surrounding countryside.
JIM BYERS
Jim Byers is the voice behind JimByersTravel.com, where he blends vivid travel writing, striking photography, and destination consulting. A former Toronto Star travel editor, Jim’s work now appears regularly in openjaw.com, BOLD Traveller, the Toronto Star, Costco Travel, Travelife, AARP Magazine, and other leading outlets. He’s a familiar guest on radio and TV, sharing insider tips and global insights, and he serves on the board of the Society of American Travel Writers. Whether on assignment or on air, Jim’s passion is inviting readers and listeners to see the world with fresh eyes.