600 Kilometres of Silence
A journey north on Québec's Billy Diamond Highway invites travellers into Eeyou Istchee, the vast traditional territory of the Cree Nation
By Andréanne Joly
“You absolutely have to take this road to dip a foot into the waters of James Bay.”
Author Hélène Desgranges doesn't hesitate when asked why travellers should make the drive north. Living in Radisson, near the northern end of the road, she has travelled the Billy Diamond Highway more times than she can count.
The route stretches through more than 600 kilometres of boreal forest, crossing rivers, burn zones, and vast expanses of northern Quebec before eventually reaching the shores of James Bay. Along the way are Cree communities, hydroelectric landmarks, wildlife, and some of the quietest stretches of pavement on the continent.
"The road has a therapeutic effect," she says. "You're not disturbed. There are hardly any other vehicles."
It's a fitting description of a highway that feels less like a route to somewhere and more like an immersion into the North.
Originally named the James Bay Road, the highway was constructed in the 1970s to support the development of Hydro-Québec's James Bay hydroelectric project. It was renamed in 2020 in honour of Billy Diamond, the Cree leader from Waskaganish who played a pivotal role in negotiating the James Bay and Northern Quebec Agreement.
Today, the road serves another purpose. It invites travellers into Eeyou Istchee, the traditional homeland of the Cree Nation, and offers a rare opportunity to experience one of the most remote corners of Quebec by road.
For long stretches, there is little to distract from the scenery.
Black spruce forests line the highway. Rivers cut across the terrain. Wildlife sightings are common enough that drivers learn to keep a careful eye on the roadside. Foxes, ptarmigan, moose and even wolves occasionally make an appearance.
The only major stop between Matagami and Radisson is the service station at kilometre 381. Part truck stop, part gathering place, it marks the halfway point for many travellers heading north. Beyond it, the landscape becomes increasingly sparse and open.
In places, the landscape feels almost post-apocalyptic. Major wildfires swept through sections of the region in 1987, 2013 and again in 2023, leaving behind vast stands of blackened trees.
But the story isn't one of destruction alone.
"There are beautiful places where nature has reclaimed the land," Hélène says.
She often plans her drives around sunset, timing long stretches of the journey to coincide with the evening glow.
"When you pass through here at sunset, I can't explain it. It's beautiful."
Several rest areas invite travellers to slow down and experience the landscape more closely. Located along major rivers, they provide opportunities to stretch, walk short trails, camp, or simply take in the scenery.
At the Broadback River (km 232), visitors can camp beside the water. Farther north, the Rupert River rest area (km 257) offers views of powerful cascades. Near the Opinaca River (km 411) is one of Hélène's favourite stops.
"There’s a lovely waterfall and a short trail," she says. "Opinaca is one of the best places to spend the night. There are sites overlooking the water. You can see the reservoir.”
For those who are willing to slow down, Hélène says there are surprises to be discovered along the way, including her favourite spot, which she likes to keep a secret.
“It’s a field of Labrador tea stretching as far as the eye can see," she says. "The smell that comes from it! It smells amazing, wow. Lying down in that — it’s not something you can experience anywhere else.”
At kilometre 617, in Radisson, a campground with about 40 sites offers overnight stays, including showers, washrooms, electricity, and running water.
Desgranges encourages camping at the Radisson or Chisasibi campgrounds, or at designated rest areas through voluntary donations, but discourages setting up camp on public lands, particularly those owned by Hydro-Québec.
For many travellers, however, the road's most meaningful destinations lie beyond the scenery.
Four communities are located along the coast of James Bay — Waskaganish, Eastmain, Wemindji, and Chisasibi — each about an hour’s drive off the Billy-Diamond Highway.
Radisson is inland from the bay, near the Robert-Bourassa generating facility, North America's largest hydropower plant.
Each community demonstrates a genuine desire to share its culture and offers an authentic experience.
In Chisasibi, the community's Heritage and Cultural Centre offers insight into Cree history and culture while exploring the profound changes brought by hydroelectric development in the region.
Through exhibits and audiovisual presentations, visitors learn how river diversions and reservoir creation transformed both the landscape and traditional ways of life.
The story continues in Radisson, where the Pierre-Radisson Interpretation Centre introduces visitors to the engineering behind the James Bay hydroelectric complex.
Nearby, the Robert-Bourassa generating station remains one of the most impressive examples of large-scale hydroelectric development anywhere in the world and offers tours.
Birdwatchers travel to Wemindji and Chisasibi to observe migratory birds. Wildlife photographers venture onto the Trans-Taiga Road, an extension of the Billy-Diamond Highway used by Cree communities, workers, and gravel-motorcycle enthusiasts alike.
Artisans often visit the Ouwah Store in Chisasibi to find beads, fabric, hides, embroidery thread, ribbons, and souvenirs.
The journey north takes time. That's part of its appeal.
“That’s the Billy-Diamond Highway," Héle1ne says. "A wonderful road where time stands still, and you become one with the land.”
Andréanne Joly
Andréanne Joly has been exploring Canada’s rich and diverse Francophone communities for 25 years. She would gladly continue for another 100, as the beauty and diversity of these places never cease to amaze her. As a journalist, she regularly contributes to Northern Soul magazine, L’Express de Toronto, the tourism blog NorddelOntario.ca, and works with the Culinary Tourism Alliance. She is one of four authors of the book En train au Canada, published in 2025 by Gallimard.